A structured and refined Premier Cru Pinot Noir from the south-facing Les Combins vineyard in Mercurey.
The 2023 Les Combins combines ripe cherry, raspberry and blackberry with violet, spice and subtle earthy notes. The palate has good concentration, fine tannins and fresh acidity, with restrained oak adding structure without dominating the fruit.
A relatively generous expression of Mercurey, but with sufficient freshness and tannic definition for medium-term bottle development.
Region: Burgundy, France
Subregion: Côte Chalonnaise
Appellation: Mercurey Premier Cru AOC
Premier Cru: Les Combins
Vintage: 2023
Producer: Domaine Theulot-Juillot
Grape: 100% Pinot Noir — Massal Selection
Altitude: Approximately 275 Metres
Exposure: South
Soils: Oxfordian Beige Marl
Vine Age: Approximately 35–45 Years
Harvest: Hand-Harvested
Aging: 14 Months
Barrel Aging: 12 Months
New Oak: Approximately 25%
Style: Dry Red Burgundy
Les Combins is a Premier Cru vineyard situated on the slopes of Mercurey in Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise.
Domaine Theulot-Juillot's vines occupy a fully south-facing slope at approximately 275 meters elevation, planted on pale Oxfordian marl.
The domaine's holdings are established vines, with approximately one-third around 45 years old and two-thirds around 35 years old.
Rather than relying on a single commercial clone, the Pinot Noir comes from massal selection, preserving a broader range of genetic material within the vineyard.
The combination of mature vines, southern exposure and marl soils gives Les Combins sufficient fruit concentration while retaining the freshness and mineral structure associated with Mercurey.
The vineyard is farmed without herbicides, with the soils worked mechanically.
Yields are controlled through careful disbudding and, when required, green harvesting.
The grapes are hand-harvested into small crates and sorted before fermentation.
The wine undergoes a relatively long 15-day cuvaison, including approximately four days of pre-fermentation maceration at 12°C.
Élevage lasts about 14 months, including 12 months in French oak barrels, around 25% of which are new.
The wine is bottled several months after blending, with light filtration if required.
Nose:
Ripe red cherry and raspberry, followed by blackberry and violet. With air, subtle notes of spice, dried herbs, and earth become more apparent.
Palate:
Medium-bodied and concentrated, with ripe red and dark berry fruit through the center of the palate. Fresh acidity maintains definition while fine-grained tannins provide structure.
Structure:
More substantial than village Mercurey, with good fruit concentration and clearly defined tannins. The 25% new oak contributes texture and gentle spice without dominating the Pinot Noir.
Finish:
Persistent and balanced, with cherry, darker berries, spice and a restrained savory-mineral character.
Les Combins is one of Domaine Theulot-Juillot's established Premier Cru expressions of Mercurey.
Its fully south-facing position encourages good ripeness, while the Oxfordian marl soils and elevation help retain freshness.
The mature vines—approximately 35 to 45 years old—provide greater depth than the domaine's younger or broader village-level wines.
The 2023 combines the relatively generous fruit character of the vintage with the structure of the vineyard.
Cherry and raspberry dominate in youth, accompanied by blackberry, violet and spice. Twelve months in barrel, including about 25% new oak, adds texture and structure.
The result is a Pinot Noir with more depth than village Mercurey, while remaining balanced and recognizably Burgundian.
The 2023 vintage produced Pinot Noir with attractive fruit, good ripeness and generally approachable tannins across Burgundy.
In Les Combins, the vineyard's southern exposure gives the wine a relatively generous fruit profile.
The mature vines and marl soils provide the counterpoint, contributing acidity and structure.
The wine is therefore approachable relatively early but should benefit from several additional years in the bottle as the tannins, fruit, and oak become more integrated.
Drink: Now–2037
Preferred Window: 2027–2034
The 2023 can be opened now, but it remains youthful.
At present, expect a relatively fruit-driven expression emphasizing cherry, raspberry, blackberry and violet, with noticeable freshness and fine tannic structure.
If drinking now, allow approximately 45–60 minutes in the bottle or a large Burgundy glass.
For greater integration, I would prefer 2027 onward. Another two to four years should allow the oak and tannins to settle more completely into the fruit.
From approximately 2028–2030, the wine should begin moving away from purely primary fruit toward more developed notes of dried cherry, dried flowers, forest floor, mushroom, and savory spice.
Well-stored bottles should continue to develop comfortably through the early to mid-2030s.
Serving Temperature: 15–16°C
In practical terms: drink now for fresh fruit, energy and structure; hold another 2–4 years for greater integration and savoury complexity.
The combination of Pinot Noir fruit, acidity and Premier Cru structure makes Les Combins particularly versatile at the table.
Recommended Pairings:
Duck Breast · Duck Confit · Roast Chicken · Quail · Pork Tenderloin · Veal · Lamb · Beef Tenderloin · Venison · Game Birds · Mushroom Risotto · Porcini · Comté · Époisses
Pair with duck breast, veal with mushrooms or roast lamb.
The cherry and raspberry character complements poultry particularly well, while the added structure of Les Combins lets it handle richer dishes such as lamb or simply prepared beef.
With several more years of bottle age, porcini, mushroom, and truffle dishes should become increasingly suitable as the wine develops more earthy, savory characteristics.
For guests exploring Burgundy beyond the Côte d'Or, Les Combins provides a particularly useful example of serious Premier Cru Pinot Noir from Mercurey—mature vines, a clearly defined vineyard and enough structure for meaningful bottle development.
