One of Tuscany's most distinctive expressions of pure Sangiovese, Testamatta Rosso 2023 is a beautifully energetic, refined and mineral-driven wine from Bibi Graetz. Testamatta—Italian for “crazy head”—captures Graetz's creative philosophy: combining Tuscan tradition with an unconventional approach to produce Sangiovese of remarkable purity, transparency and finesse.
The 2023 is particularly compelling, showing perfumed red fruit, floral lift, savory complexity and exceptionally fine tannins, with freshness and tension running through the wine from beginning to end. Critics have praised the vintage highly, including 98 points from Decanter and 98 points from James Suckling.
Region: Tuscany, Italy
Appellation: Toscana IGT
Grape: 100% Sangiovese
Style: Dry, elegant and structured Tuscan red
Alcohol: 14%
Testamatta is produced entirely from Sangiovese sourced from hillside vineyards including Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena. Bibi Graetz describes the wine as an expression of the purity, minerality and transparency of old-vine Sangiovese grown on stony Tuscan soils. Fermentation takes place naturally in open-top barrels, followed by approximately 20 months of aging.
Nose:
Seductive and wonderfully aromatic, opening with wild cherry, raspberry and plum, followed by rose petals, dried flowers and subtle darker fruit. With air, more complex notes of sage, tobacco, incense, white pepper and earthy Tuscan herbs begin to emerge.
Palate:
Pure and energetic, with juicy red cherry and raspberry at its core. The fruit is framed by vibrant acidity and beautifully polished tannins, while dried herbs, citrus peel, spice and crushed mineral notes add complexity. Despite its concentration, the wine feels remarkably graceful and precise rather than heavy.
Structure:
Medium to full-bodied with firm, ultra-fine tannins, mouthwatering acidity and excellent mineral tension. There is impressive concentration beneath the elegance, suggesting considerable potential for development in bottle.
Finish:
Long, savory and mineral, leaving impressions of red cherry, dried herbs, rose, spice and crushed stone, with a distinctive saline freshness.
Testamatta Rosso 2023 is an outstanding example of modern Tuscan Sangiovese—combining the soul and freshness of traditional Tuscany with Bibi Graetz's unmistakably individual style.
What makes this vintage particularly appealing is its balance between concentration and finesse. It has plenty of depth, but its defining characteristics are perfume, freshness, silky tannins and mineral energy rather than sheer power.
With 98-point ratings from both Decanter and James Suckling, the 2023 ranks among the strongest recent releases of Testamatta.
The 2023 growing season was challenging in Tuscany, with significant rainfall and mildew pressure affecting yields across the region. Bibi Graetz reported losing only around 10% of his fruit, although production of Testamatta itself was highly selective; one report notes approximately 32,000 bottles were produced versus more than 100,000 in a typical vintage.
The resulting wine displays excellent freshness, aromatic definition and fine tannins. James Suckling highlighted its energy, tension and finesse, while recommending several years of bottle age for the wine to fully open.
2028–2047+
The 2023 is still youthful and tightly structured. It can certainly be enjoyed earlier with 1–2 hours of decanting, particularly for those who enjoy vibrant young Sangiovese, but patience should reward the collector.
From around 2028 onward, expect the primary cherry and raspberry fruit to gradually evolve toward dried flowers, leather, tobacco, forest floor, herbs and savory spice. Berry Bros. & Rudd currently suggests a drinking window of 2028–2047.
Beautiful with Bistecca alla Fiorentina, roasted lamb, duck breast, braised beef short rib, wild boar ragù, porcini mushroom risotto, handmade pasta with meat ragù and aged Pecorino Toscano.
Its bright Sangiovese acidity also makes it particularly successful with tomato-based Tuscan dishes, while its fine tannins and savory character make it an excellent partner for grilled and roasted meats.
